PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSES

ALAN’S SOLUTIONS

Recurring high pH (above 7.8)

·         Addition of too much pH Plus (sodium carbonate)

Because the pH can be affected by several factors, test the pH frequently and add the appropriate pH control chemicals – SUN Plus or Minus – as required to keep the pH within the optimum range of 7.2-7.8.

Recurring low pH (below 7.2)

·         Natural effects of bathers in water, acid rain and atmospheric carbon dioxide

Test the water for total alkalinity and, if less than 80 ppm, adjust by adding SUN Alkalinity Plus as directed.  The use of trichlor or bromine tablets will require regular additions of SUN Plus to offset their acidic nature.  Test the pH frequently and add the appropriate pH control chemicals – SUN Plus or Minus – as required to keep the pH within the optimum range of 7.2-7.8

pH bounce (fluctuates frequently)

·         Addition of too much pH control chemical

Adjust the total alkalinity to 80-150 ppm by adding the appropriate amount of SUN Alkalinity Plus.

High Total Alkalinity (TA) (above 150 ppm)

·         Failure to regularly test and adjust the pH and Total Alkalinity, as needed.

Add SUN Alkalinity Minus to lower the TA until either the TA drops to the desired level or the pH drops to 7.2.  Dropping the TA is sometimes difficult.  So long as the pH is optimum, the water is clear and scaling is not present, it may not be necessary to lower the TA.  Test water regularly.

Low Total Alkalinity (TA) (below 80 ppm)

·         Failure to regularly test and adjust the pH and Total Alkalinity, as needed.

Add SUN Alkalinity Plus according to label directions to raise the total alkalinity to the proper range of 80-150 ppm.  Once the TA is optimized, maintaining a proper pH will help keep it within the ideal range.  Test water regularly.

Hints/Preventive Maintenance:

Controlling the pH is important to help keep the chlorine efficient, reduce the possibility of corrosion and help keep the water comfortable for the bathers.  Total alkalinity helps to stabilize the pH within the optimum range.  Test the water for pH on a daily basis, if possible.  If the pH is found to be out of range, add the appropriate chemical, as directed.  See your SUN dealer for additional balance tips.

PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSES

ALAN’S SOLUTIONS

High calcium hardness (above 400 ppm)

·         Addition of too much calcium hardness increaser

High levels of calcium hardness can lead to cloudy water and scale formation, especially in the presence of high pH and total alkalinity.  Levels up to 400 ppm are usually not a problem, if normal chemistry is maintained.  Levels over 400 ppm can be controlled by the addition of SUN Stain & Scale Inhibitor or the replacement of some of the water with softer water.  To prevent further increases in the calcium hardness levels, do not use products containing calcium hypochlorite for sanitizing or shocking purposes.

Low calcium hardness (below 200 ppm)

·         Failure to add calcium hardness increaser

Low levels of calcium hardness can lead to the corrosion of masonry surfaces, especially in the presence of low pH and total alkalinity.  Masonry pools should be increased to 200 ppm and vinyl and fiberglass pools raised to 80-200 ppm.  SUN Hardness Treatment can be used to boost the calcium hardness to the proper level.

Hints/Preventive Maintenance:

Test the water for calcium hardness at the start of the season or at the first signs of cloudy water, scaling or deposits on underwater surfaces.  Calcium hardness levels can be controlled by keeping the pH and alkalinity in their proper ranges.

High total dissolved solids (TDS) (above 3000 ppm)

·         Long term buildup due to chemical additions – every chemical added to pool water contributes to TDS

Replace some of the water with fresh water that is low in TDS.  If there are no signs of a clarity problem, TDS is usually not a problem.  Replacement of water lost due to pump out, backwashing and splash out will help keep the TDS in check.  If there is a persistent water quality problem that defies explanation, TDS should be looked into as a possible contributing factor by bringing a water sample to your professional SUN dealer.

Hints/Preventive Maintenance:

Very high levels of TDS can lead to loss of chlorine efficiency and cloudy water.  Yearly testing of TDS can pinpoint the possible need to replace some or all of the water. 

High rate of chlorine usage

Combined chlorine (chloramines) is ineffective as a pool water sanitizer.  Shock the pool with SUN-Brite non-chlorine shock, which converts the ineffective Combined Chlorine into Free Chlorine.  Add enough shock until the difference between the Combined Chlorine and Free Chlorine is within 1 ppm.  If needed, add SUN Booster or SUN-Burn to raise the Free Chlorine level to 1-3 ppm.

PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSES

ALAN’S SOLUTIONS

High Free Chlorine levels

·         Low bather demand

The Free Chlorine level will lower over time as the chlorine is used up.  Thereafter, adjust the chlorine being added to the pool based on how the pool is being used and the water temperature.  Add more during times of heat and peak usage, and less during cooler and less active periods of usage.  If chlorine is added at too high a rate, the level of Free Chlorine can build up.  Always follow label directions carefully.

Low Free Chlorine levels

·         Presence of algae and organic waste products

Shock the pool with a quick-dissolving product such as:  SUN-Brite, SUN Booster or SUN-Burn.  Repeat shock treatment until a Free Chlorine level of at least 3 ppm can be maintained overnight.  Check pH and stabilizer level, and adjust accordingly with SUN Plus or Minus or SUN Conditioner respectively; filter continuously.  Resume normal chlorination and filtration.

High combined chlorine (chloramines – causes chlorine odors)

·         Presence of algae and bacterial slimes

Combined chlorine (chloramines) can be odorous and irritating and is ineffective as a pool water sanitizer.  Shock the pool with SUN-Brite non-chlorine shock, which converts the ineffective Combined Chlorine into Free Chlorine.  Add enough shock until the difference between the Combined Chlorine and Free Chlorine is within 1 ppm.  If needed, add SUN Booster or SUN-Burn to raise the Free Chlorine level to 1-3 ppm.

Chlorine/Sanitizer Appears Ineffective

·         High pH and/or stabilizer level and/or TDS

Shock the pool with a quantity of Free Chlorine 5-10 times that of the combined chlorine. A quick-dissolving product such as:  SUN-Brite, SUN Booster or SUN-Burn should be used.

Hints/Preventive Maintenance:

Test your water daily to maintain proper sanitizer and pH levels.  Make sure your filter is in good working order and the filter cycles are long enough.  Test for Total Chlorine (Free Chlorine plus Combined Chlorine) occasionally or at the first signs of poor water quality.  If you use a chlorine feeder with trichlor tablets, be sure to add tablets weekly to replace the quantity dissolved.  Trichlor tablets are acidic and will require regular additions of SUN Plus in order to maintain a proper pH.  Shock the pool to destroy contamination and help the regular chlorine additions work more effectively.  Do not allow chlorine to come in direct contact with vinyl pool surfaces as it will cause bleaching.

PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSES

ALAN’S SOLUTIONS

High rate of bromine usage

·         Presence of algae and bacterial slimes

Make sure the bromine level is being maintained at 3-5 ppm.  Check the pH and adjust to 7.2-7.8 as necessary with SUN Plus or Minus.  Inspect for the presence of algae or bacterial slimes.  If present, shock with SUN-Burn or SUN-Brite to boost the bromine level to at least 5 ppm for an overnight period (see Algae Problems for more detailed remedy).  Make sure that children are not urinating in the pool.  Vacuum all debris from the bottom and clean the skimmer.

High bromine levels

·         Low bather demand

The bromine level will lower over time as the bromine is used up.  Thereafter, adjust the bromine being added to the pool based on how the pool is used, and the temperature of the water.  Add more during times of heat and peak usage, and less during cooler and less active periods of usage.  If bromine is added at too high a rate, the level can build up.  Always test the bromine before shocking to help better judge the amount needed.

Low bromine levels

·         Poor circulation or short filter cycle

Shock the pool with a quick-dissolving product such as:  SUN-Brite, SUN Booster or SUN-Burn.  Repeat shock treatment until a bromine level of at least 5 ppm can be maintained overnight.  Check pH and adjust as needed with SUN Plus or Minus; filter continuously.  Resume normal bromination and filtration.  Keep brominator filled with tablets for best results.

Hints/Preventive Maintenance:

Test your water daily to maintain a bromine level of 3-5 ppm and a pH between 7.2-7.8.  Make sure the filter is in good working order, and the filter cycles are long enough.  Bromine tablets are acidic and will require regular additions of SUN Plus in order to maintain a proper pH.  Shock the pool to destroy contamination and help the regular bromine additions work more effectively. 

Not responding to shock treatment

The dosage on the product label may not always be enough to completely destroy all of the waste, debris and algae.  It is intended as a starting point.  Shock the water as directed and test for Free Chlorine after a few hours.  Keep the filter running continuously until the water is clear.  If the Free Chlorine is below 3 ppm, add a repeat dose of shock.  Continue testing and add additional shock until a Free Chlorine level of at least 3 ppm is maintained for an overnight period.  Resume normal chlorination and filtration.

Hints/Preventive Maintenance:

Shocking your pool on a weekly basis is important to destroy any buildup of contamination.  For best results, shock weekly or after periods of high bather load, heavy rainfall or extreme heat; at first signs of algae; or whenever the Free Chlorine bottoms out.  It is best to shock at night.

PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSES

ALAN’S SOLUTIONS

High stabilizer levels (above 150)

·         Excessive additions of cyanuric acid stabilizer

High levels of cyanuric acid can reduce the efficiency of chlorine and make it necessary to maintain higher levels of Free Chlorine.  Levels over 150 ppm should be lowered to optimum.  The only way to lower cyanuric acid is to replace some of the pool water with fresh water.  Always remove an amount of water that avoids possible vinyl liner shrinkage or structural damage (1-2 feet at a time is usually a safe amount).

Low stabilizer levels

·         Replacement of all or part of the water through draining or backwashing

Low levels of cyanuric acid can easily be increased by the addition of SUN Conditioner.  Add the product according to the package directions.  Cyanuric acid will have a slight lowering effect on the pH; test and adjust if necessary.

Hints/Preventive Maintenance:

Cyanuric acid should always be added to outdoor, freshly filled or new pools that are to be maintained with chlorine.  In northern areas, a level of 20-40 ppm is recommended.  In sunbelt areas, a level of 40-60 is preferred.  It is important to have the cyanuric acid level tested at least twice yearly and adjust as needed.